I rather use zigbee or zwave instead of shelly contacts
For me this looks also overengineered.
I would expect charging maybe two or three times a year?
If I would have wires at the TRVs I would think about wired TRVs âŠ
how did u managed to get the channels to be items to be used for basic ui and Habpanel.
Can you please give me an example.
Reusing this thread.
I am choosing between tado, danfoss or fibaro.
Can i have some rekommendations.
Just an update on reliability. Iâve been using the Max! EQ3. trv s for the last few years with great success. To address purples concerns over reliability,; the batteries generally are good for 1.5 years. Some have reported problems with batteries leaking on wireless trvs, Iâve not had this problem however I have stuck with Energizer batteries because of their no leaks guarantee.
With regards lost connections, this does happen sometimes, but if you set up your heating schedule via the Max! app the schedule for each valve is uploaded to that valve and it will run autonomously. I have settled on a basic schedule per room, per week which I then over ride Chinaâs Openhab rules, time extensions, presence, schedule changes etc. That way I have a fall back should the connection fail, I break Openhab or similar.
Retro fitting to an old heating system, some of which is over 50 years old, the Booker and controls being the newest, is simple. The trvs are a straight swap for the passive ones, although the room with the original thermostat wonât have a trv and so will require a radiator valve change. Boiler interlock was done in an Openhab rule by calculating the total percentage of of valve positions and turning the boiler o when greater than 10% open and off again at 9%,. I built an esp8266 Wi-Fi relay into a well thermostat case to replace the old wall thermostat.
The whole system has worked very reliably, the main problem has been sticking valves ( not the trv bit, the radiator valve), Iâve just changed a Drayton valve for a Pegler Terrier valve which seems far better suited to wireless trv heads, it has a wide platform for the control pin to push on rather than the little pin in the Drayton.
Problems, sometimes when the batteries start to go flat the trv firmware gets corrupted, presumably due to the batteries putting noise in the per rails, they them either become erratic or lose their valve limit settings and donât close properly, a hard reset and me batteries fixed this.
Iâve seen a marked rise in efficiency on the central heating, probably over 10%, which itâs better and cheaper than a new boiler. Comfort is also far better as itâs zoned per room. Iâ he made a rule to turn the bathroom radiator/fuel tail on when the shoets is used so we donât suffer with stinky damp towels in the summer. Plus the logging afforded on Howe the heating is behaving makes fault finding so much easier than before.
If you have CH and havenât integrated it into Openhab, you should. Itâs Huge improvement.
@mstormi
I noticed other threads on discussing thermic actuators with radiators (instead of underfloor hydronic heating) but I always wondered if this really works considering the fact that PWM duty cycle would cycle in extreme cases in range of minutes (1-2 min. ON, 1-2 min OFF).
Will the regulation really work in such short times for PWM? What is your experience.
Isntât this too short considering that opening/closing times of 4-6 min. for thermic actuators?
I would like to hear your experience with such setup.
I am planning on to do so with Heatit Z-Water relay module and thermic actuators on radiotars.
Many thanks
dunno what you mean by âPWM duty cycleâ here (pulse width modulation this isnât).
So if opening takes longer than it takes control to reverse target state, itâs only say 1/4 open and will invert, i.e. start closing. Hot water throughput will then be 1/4th that of a fully opened valve.
I switched from a StellaZ to a thermic actuator with the qubino z-wave thermostat and the latter was (even though mains powered) a much more pleasant experience.
Itâs silent and had good temperature control. Also nice was that there was a dedicated temperature probe already included so itâs possible to measure the target temperature somewhere else.
PWM was wrong expression.
I meant that period of duty cycle could be much lower than the time required to fully open/close the thermic valve. I am wondering what would be the period for radiator system since for underfloor heating 30 minutes was optimal for my setup.
What kind of controlling method would be the most effective for ON/OFF thermic actuator?
Thereâs no general answer, you have to find out for your setup.
Again, I donât understand. How do you calculate âeffectivenessâ ? Ultimately it wonât matter much.
I would rephrase effective to feasible/workable.
Any simple ON-if-below-and-OFF-if-above strategy will do. Feel free to add hysteresis if itâs toogling too often.