That’s a good way of putting it. Someone just went in the other direction recently, and they’re always welcome back. We try to keep things friendly around here.
It’s basically for connecting a Thread network to an IP-based network over WiFi or ethernet. But unlike a Z-Wave controller, you can have multiple border routers in your network that all talk to each other and to your Thread devices).
That’s exactly it. OH needs to have all of your devices, and my various interfaces only show the devices I want to use through them.
@jimtng covered this pretty well from the rules side, but you’ll also need to think about the hardware. I think you’ll want a switch that can act as a scene controller, so that you can have different button presses for your two scenes (30% and 100%). Or just add a separate scene controller like this one. Otherwise, you may find that pressing the physical switch doesn’t always give you the results you want. That can be maddening.
Some folks advocate for adding wires whenever you can, while others advocate for wireless. Both will say that they’re trying to avoid obsolesence in the future. I don’t think there’s any way around that, because technology continues to move forward. You can still find lots of houses that don’t have neutral wires, and thrift stores have shelves full of old WiFi routers. Nothing is safe.
I can envision a future in which the 110/220V AC sockets in our houses are mostly replaced with 5V/12V DC ports. They’d be safer, more efficient, and get rid of all the AC adapters plugged into our walls. This is a very, very distant future. Very.
Close. It’s a Creality CR-6 SE, which has auto-levelling via a strain gauge built into the hotend. The auto-levelling works pretty well, but I’ve read that the CR-Touch is still better.
Something for you to consider: Beginner’s Guide to Network UPS Tools (NUT) on a Raspberry Pi