Looking for a MQTT to IR device


(Psyciknz) #6

The Rm Mini? I just run it off a standard usb charger, so it should run off a ps4.


(Kris K) #7

Yep, the reason I say is my media cabinet as the PS4 with spare USB ports, I just dont want to run more cables or use more power outlets


(erick) #8

This is how I have it set up. You can use a sonoff or regular esp8266 running Tasmota with an ir led. First you need to go to the Tasmota web browser and configure the module to IRrecv then go to the console and you will see your codes appear there. You want to save this section of the code:

{"Protocol":"SAMSUNG","Bits":32,"Data":"E0E040BF"}

Once you have all your codes return to configure module and select IRsend and save. This is my openHAB setup. You will also need to add 0x before your code in the map file.

.items file

Number IRsend "Samsung Remote" {mqtt=">[broker:cmnd/sonoff/irsend:command:*:MAP(irsamsung.map)]"}

.sitemap file

Switch item=IRsend mappings=[0="Power"]

irsamsung.map file

0={"Protocol":"SAMSUNG","Bits":32,"Data":"0xE0E040BF" 

(Kris K) #9

Thanks Erick. I’ll look into this further. I have a hisense TV so I’ll need to see if I can find codes


(Kris K) #10

@erickk did you solder an IR Led to the Sonoff board? Which hardware did you use. Im trying to not have to solder etc. Or, looking for a neat like solution. These breadboard units are less than ideal.

Cost is not a concern.


(Vincent Regaud) #11

Lucky you.

I am seriously looking into the broadlink-mqtt option.
But the IR tasmotta works great.


(Kris K) #12

Issue with the Sonoff is it requires a 240Volt socket I’d rather not use.


(Vincent Regaud) #13

You could power the sonoff directly from pins 1 and 4 with 3.3v if you were so inclined.


(Kris K) #14

I thought IR leds needed about 5V to have a decent reach? But thats a good idea. Ideally, I’d like this to have a USB socket or cable.


(Gad Ofir) #15

can the sonofff still be used as a realy?


(Vincent Regaud) #16

From the tasmota wiki:

The resistor values depend on the used IR LED and the gain of the NPN Transistor. Rb is not really necessary an can be left out. R1 limits the current through the diod and can have Values between 2.5 Ohm and 10 Ohm. Using lower values gives you a better range but you risk the diod if the current gets to high. About 100mA are ok for sending signals. Check your datasheets!

A usb power supply is 5v, you would destroy your sonoff!! Make sure it’s a 3.3v supply like this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/382081246104?chn=ps&adgroupid=57477945728&rlsatarget=pla-436434579554&abcId=1133956&adtype=pla&merchantid=9638634&poi=&googleloc=9045974&device=c&campaignid=1058851135&crdt=0

I know it’s ebay UK but I am sure you can find this Down Under

I found that that depended on the sonoff!! some work and some don’t. But that was from the computer usb-serial adapter so maybe not enough current. The PSU above provides 2A, that should be enough!


(Jens) #17

I’m using OpenMQTTgateway as a bridge in both way’s.

OpenMQTTGateway on GitHub

A really good project with all you need - wiring - code - openHAB integration.

It can even get extended with a BLE and/or a RF module.

There is a Topic in openHAB community too - ESP8266 based 433mhz & IR gateway bidirectional with MQTT --> OpenMQTTGateway


(Danny mullen) #18

@erickk thanks for posting! I was wanting this also!!


(erick) #19

Yes you should still be able to use the relay on the sonoff. The relay uses gpio pin 12 and the Ir led can be on gpio pin 14 so all should be fine.


(erick) #20

Np. Glad to help


(Kris K) #21

Ive ordered an RM Mini, that seemed the easiest solution. I wasn’t too keen on soldering wires and having breadboard like devices in my home automation system.


(Stephen) #22

@dastrix80 It would be worth testing your TV’s USB outputs. From experience I know that in order to save power on standby the USB ports on many TVs shut down after some time. It is probably not something that is explained in the TV’s user manual.
If you want the TV’s USB to power the IR emitter, the USB must be capable of permanent power even in standby. There could be an energy saving mode that could be turned off in the settings menu.
Another option which should be quite easy to integrate with openHAB are the iTach and Flex modules from Global Cache - they are very small and available with PoE which can be useful and saves space behind the TV.
I have been shot down on these forums for proposing valid products that to some may seem too expensive, too professional and not “hacky” enough for openHABers. The Global Cache will work though.


(Stephen) #23

Most TV remotes start with 3V and it goes downhill from there!


(Kris K) #24

Thanks @Stephen_IE_NZ do you know the Flex cost roughly? Ive bought the RM mini already though

Ill check my USB ports tonight :slight_smile: good idea!


(Stephen) #25

Hi Kris,

I don’t have a price to hand - it would depend where in the world you are I expect.

Cheers, Stephen