Thanks Erick. I’ll look into this further. I have a hisense TV so I’ll need to see if I can find codes
@erickk did you solder an IR Led to the Sonoff board? Which hardware did you use. Im trying to not have to solder etc. Or, looking for a neat like solution. These breadboard units are less than ideal.
Cost is not a concern.
I am seriously looking into the broadlink-mqtt option.
But the IR tasmotta works great.
Issue with the Sonoff is it requires a 240Volt socket I’d rather not use.
You could power the sonoff directly from pins 1 and 4 with 3.3v if you were so inclined.
I thought IR leds needed about 5V to have a decent reach? But thats a good idea. Ideally, I’d like this to have a USB socket or cable.
can the sonofff still be used as a realy?
From the tasmota wiki:
The resistor values depend on the used IR LED and the gain of the NPN Transistor. Rb is not really necessary an can be left out. R1 limits the current through the diod and can have Values between 2.5 Ohm and 10 Ohm. Using lower values gives you a better range but you risk the diod if the current gets to high. About 100mA are ok for sending signals. Check your datasheets!
A usb power supply is 5v, you would destroy your sonoff!! Make sure it’s a 3.3v supply like this one:
I know it’s ebay UK but I am sure you can find this Down Under
I found that that depended on the sonoff!! some work and some don’t. But that was from the computer usb-serial adapter so maybe not enough current. The PSU above provides 2A, that should be enough!
I’m using OpenMQTTgateway as a bridge in both way’s.
A really good project with all you need - wiring - code - openHAB integration.
It can even get extended with a BLE and/or a RF module.
There is a Topic in openHAB community too - ESP8266 based 433mhz & IR gateway bidirectional with MQTT --> OpenMQTTGateway
Yes you should still be able to use the relay on the sonoff. The relay uses gpio pin 12 and the Ir led can be on gpio pin 14 so all should be fine.
Np. Glad to help
Ive ordered an RM Mini, that seemed the easiest solution. I wasn’t too keen on soldering wires and having breadboard like devices in my home automation system.
@dastrix80 It would be worth testing your TV’s USB outputs. From experience I know that in order to save power on standby the USB ports on many TVs shut down after some time. It is probably not something that is explained in the TV’s user manual.
If you want the TV’s USB to power the IR emitter, the USB must be capable of permanent power even in standby. There could be an energy saving mode that could be turned off in the settings menu.
Another option which should be quite easy to integrate with openHAB are the iTach and Flex modules from Global Cache - they are very small and available with PoE which can be useful and saves space behind the TV.
I have been shot down on these forums for proposing valid products that to some may seem too expensive, too professional and not “hacky” enough for openHABers. The Global Cache will work though.
Most TV remotes start with 3V and it goes downhill from there!
Thanks @Stephen_IE_NZ do you know the Flex cost roughly? Ive bought the RM mini already though
Ill check my USB ports tonight good idea!
I don’t have a price to hand - it would depend where in the world you are I expect.
No worries. Ill try the RM Mini first and see how that goes Thanks for the suggestion
I’ve used a wemos D1 mini with a trimmed down prototype board with resistors and IR send and receive LEDs. Wemos D1 mini is microusb.
I think at the time I was using openmqttgateway but when I try again I’ll use tasmota. My concern was more having a finished product and not some diy looking thing.
Let us know how the broadlink mini goes, it was on my list to try aswell
RM is great!
i have it runing for almost two years i think… and no issues , this is also somthing to take in account
not sure if i have solderd IR to some node MCU it will work like this
also remmber RM will be stornger , has the design includes a number of leds to transmit