Its even cheaper than when I purchased.
It is a programmable thermostat, but just control it with OpenHAB rules.
I just put in one from radiothermostat. I got the ct80 with the Wi-Fi module, but can switch to zwave if i want. That plus the multiple stages and fresh air vent had what I wanted. They sell just wifi ones cheaper. I haven’t committed to zwave yet so wanted options.
The wifi api is local to the thermostat, no internet required.
I didn’t like the Insteon options, so I have been expanding my Zwave network a bit more as of late. I am with you, the Honeywell systems look nice, but wifi to the cloud, and expensive. 19 of them, ouch.
I settled in on the CT100, which can be found for about $70 on Amazon, and have been quite happy with them. I have them wired with power from the the units they control, and that makes them great repeaters on my network. Much better, in fact, than other mains power devices I have.
There are folks playing with zwave security, but nothing solid so far. That would mean two different z-wave controllers for you if you were putting them on OpenHAB, but does the Vera have an API? Then you can still control everything from OpenHAB if you wanted to go that route. The CT100 is 100% local, no cloud.
I use Homematic thermostats and so far with 8 of them no problem. Additionally the homamatic binding acts for about 30 sensors over all.
Thomas
I also am quite happy with the CT100.
@xsnrg, yes Vera has an API, and there is even a good openhab binding mios binding. As I mentioned my Z-Wave deadbolts are on it and then exported to OpenHab via the mios binding. I also use the IPhone location app and share locations via OpenHab.
Only thing the CT100 looks like it is missing that I am using today is Humidity. Do z-wave thermostats forward secure z-wave messages? Since I just have z-wave door locks and they don’t forward messages to save battery I had to add 4 z-wave repeters to my system so Vera could reach all of the locks. Would be nice if the thermostats filled the holes.
Never mind, I guess the Humidity problem was a vera issue that now has been worked out.
It would depend upon the T-Stat. I used to have Trane units, and they had Beam (ZNB) functionality to wake my door lock (I had one right next to the Kwikset).
That said, the Z-Wave lock interaction, and Z-Wave in general, got a lot better after I did the antenna hack on Vera, since it had the range to contact everything directly. I tried it using an Aeon ZWave S2, and it never had enough range to contact the lock (and hopping the Z-Wave mesh was always a little flakey, even with a dense network)
If you know someone that has the particular T-Stat you’re looking at, and they’re on Vera, you can have them check using information that Vera keeps in the Devices attributes.
The CT-80 will support RTZW-02 ZWave USNAP modules. Not sure it is released yet I can only find them on ebay.
But this new USNAP model should support z-wave Plus (500). Since the CT-80 is not battery operated, it should always be awake and forward messages. That is my guess anyway could find a lot of details from their website.
and
C-Wire Power
When your thermostat is running on C-Wire power, the Z-Wave® radio will stay
on and actively help in routing messages within the Z-Wave® network
I bough one of this thermostats and works well for the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor), it’s a Z-wave Plus thermostat, and it’s good looking, in white. This one works even if there is any problem with your home automation, and can be started manually.
Price it’s quite high, but going down a little bit every two months.
The Z-Wave doesn’t work with AEON Stick S2, but It seems that works with the Aeon stick GEN5. (waiting for getting it)… GEN5 stick.
I’m curious about your setup. Why would you need 19 thermostats? I guess one for each room but how do you control the heater? Do you have a heating device for each room or do you have central heating devided into zones?
Im asking because I do have central heating and I am looking for a solution to control each radiator. About 12 in my house. Honeywell evohome looked interesting but appear to be quite problematic to control.
Danfoss Living Connect is a good solution for individual radiator control (if it’s compatible with your setup). But there are so many options that are dependent on your region, existing equipment, budget and objectives, that it can be very dizzying, and worthy of their own discussion threads.
Hi watou,
Thanks for your reply. You are right and I will probably start a thread anytime soon. I had looked into Dannfos. It was a perfect solution until they changed the z-wave protocol into a closed one. At least this is the last I learned about them. But like you said, good material for a new thread.
We are in the process of integrating an OH server in HestiaPi for the next milestone (Autumn 2015). HestiaPi is a RasPi based WiFi smart thermostat for independent heating from hot water control and scheduling. If you are happy with dealing with configuring OH sitemaps etc, as its fully open source (sw and hw) you should give that a try. Feel free to ask any questions you may have or any customisation you may need.
http://www.hestiapi.com/sites/default/files/styles/medium/public/IMG_5514.jpg
I installed 7 CT100 thermostats Saturday and connected them to my Vera with my Yale dedbolts. The CT100 supports:
210,156,0,4,8,6,L,R,B,RS,|32,49:2,64:2,66,67,68,69,96:3,112,114,128,129,133,134,135,
Everything worked and connected and I exported them all to openhab via the mios binding. That is until I woke up this morning when I saw that the vera said “Can’t Detect Device” to almost all devices including locks that had been working for months. 
Regardless of what you choose for your initial solution, I have some advice. I’m building a house with 9 zones, and I’ve thought about this, too.
If your walls are still unfinished, run cat 5 or 6a to each thermostat, and have the electrician put deep boxes in the walls. You can use it as thermostat wire in the near term, and you can convert it to a PoE-powered DIY solution in the future, should you want to roll your own solution. A Raspberry Pi with a temperature and humidity sensor, an LCD, and a few buttons would suffice.
How is your system working now?
I have been remodeling my house and before the remodel started, I used a 2gig CT-100 zwave thermostat to replace the old thermostat I had. It has worked quite well with my Vera.
With my remodeling, I am getting 8 zones of radiant water-based heating. I need one thermostat per zone and am planning to keep with the 2gig. It looks nicer than the pictures of the ZTS-110. But the ZTS-110 is quite a bit cheaper. Maybe I should get ZTS-110 for the zones I will use only occasionally.
Has anybody tried both the CT-100 and the ZTS-110? Any comment as to how they compare?
I have OH1 talking to my MyTotalControl perfectly for my thermostat. See post if interested.
It’s a bit late for the OP but for others reading this thread later:
If all you need is temperature for a lot of zones, an excellent and CHEAP solution is to use a 1Wire busmaster device such as the Embedded Data Systems “OW-SERVER-ENET-2,” combined with a string of Dallas Semiconductor DS18B20 temperature sensors. The latter are available in bulk on eBay, with leads and stainless steel housings I have 20 currently, strung together using Cat5e cable in a loose bus configuration.
The chain of data flow goes:
DS18B20 sensor --> Cat 5E bus cable --> EDS OW-SERVER-ENET-2 Hardware device --> LAN/TCP IP --> owserver 3.1p4 daemon** running on my OH server, publishing on a localhost:4304 port --> OH OneWire binding polls the owserver daemon via TCPIP --> sensor data updated in OH Items.
I have been running this setup for about a month and it is rock solid. You have to be able & willing to string cable, but in trade for that you avoid hassles with wireless interference, Zwave configuration, replacing batteries, etc. I haven’t verified it yet but I believe in my configuration the OW-SERVER-ENET-2 1Wire busmaster device will support up to about 100 1-wire sensors. (The EDS marketing material and specs say it supports “up to 22 devices” – but that can be circumvented by accessing the device through the low-level direct TCP socket interface. Which the OWFS “owserver” daemon I run happens to do. Thru the low-level interface the device is said to support up to 100 sensors, tho I have not yet exceeded 20.)
There are also humidity & other 1Wire sensors available but they are considerably more expensive.
When purchased thru eBay the sensors come unlabeled (with no IDs visible,) so they have to be hooked up to the bus-master device one by one to map the internal hardware IDs with an external physical label (which you create & stick on to the wire.) During that process I also took the time to do a rough 1-point calibration using a known reference; I found that nearly all sensors were within +/- 1ºF of the reference, with just one or two stragglers at +/- 1.5ºF.
**Nota bene!: EDS chose an unfortunate part # for their busmaster device. “OW-SERVER-ENET-2” is their arbitrary model name for a physical product. “owserver” is the name of a pre-existing software daemon that is part of the “OWFS” project. owserver daemon handles onewire-protocol processing on Linux and other platforms. There is no direct connection between the EDS hardware product & the OWFS / owserver software project!
OWFS owserver software churns Onewire-format sensor data into other, simpler formats & publishes it in various forms for consumption elsewhere, e.g. in OpenHAB.
Also note: I had problems getting owserver daemon working reliably when I ran other versions than 3.1p4. YMMV but if you have problems connecting “owserver” to the “OW-SERVER-ENET-2” device, be sure to try 3.1p4 version of the owserver software.
Project costs:
Embedded Data Systems “OW-SERVER-ENET-2” hardware device, $100
Twenty (20) DS18B20 sensors, with 3’ cables and stainless housings, $50 total
About 150’ of Cat5e cable, ~$30
A box of 3M ScotchLok UR moisture-resistance butt splice connectors, $15
About $10 per zone for 20 zones. The DS18B20 is a popular sensor, wouldn’t be surprised if it’s at the heart of many a $50-$150 “smart wireless” thermostat unit.