Oh dear!
230 volts means Danger of DEATH if handled incorrectly !!
You really should know a bit more about conventional electrical installation if you’re doing these yourselves…
Neutral is 0, usually a blue wire.
Ground needs to be connected to the earth (and its electrical potential, that’s why it’s called “ground”), a yellow-green wire. Usually, Ground has 0 potential, too, but if for whatever reason (device defect, misconnected wires, … whatever) there’s a potential (230V POWER, that could be !!!) on the “neutral” wire, there’s devices to detect this difference (thanks to the ground wire) and interrupt the circuit to save your life.
You should be having at least one of these in your housing installation, and you should know all the electrical basics before you proceed with your experiments.
AGAIN: 230 volts means danger of DEATH !
First if all, I totally agree to @mstormi, all electronic installations must be done by an electrician!
Concerning the wires, you are right. One neutral, one for up, one for down. One is unused in my setup, I believe - I don’t know exactly what my electrician did there
Some roller shutter motors can be set through a 4th wire - that’s how it’s here (Rademacher electronic).
Just drive the roller shutter next to the down position, pull up the “set” wire to 230V, step down to the lowest position, then open the “set” wire. After that, drive up next to the up position, pull up the “set” wire to 230V, step up to the highest position and reopen the “set” wire, done.
I don’t know why you think I would do this myself.
That was never the intention. Sorry if I gave that impression.
The installation will be done by an electrician, yet I do have to tell him what I want.
And I do have to know that what I want is possible.
The electrician does not know Openhab.
Neither do the people who will install the rollershutters.
All parties keep pushing their own preferred (read :only-one they know) domotica system.
I’m lucky to have found partners that are ok with openhab and installing what I want.
yet I still have to figure out if the different things we want from different suppliers work together.
I do know that. yet from all the appliances this is the first that has 4 wires.
And @paphko said he uses 2 times: neutral + wire
So I wondered if that could be a mistake with the documentation of the device.
(and yes I did ask this question to the supplier too)
This was just to confuse all others
To be honest, my roller shutters have 5 wires
ground (green/yellow)
neutral (blue)
set (grey)
clockwise (black)
counter clockwise (brown)
Be aware that up/down depends on how the motor is installed (left or right)
The electrician will have to install an actuator which can be controlled via openHAB, e.g. through knx, zwave, x10, … or even a simple relais (ok, two of them per roller shutter), controlled with +5 Volt from Pi, that is up to your preferences. This actuator then will control the roller shutter motor, you need one actuator for each window/roller shutter.
counter clockwise to the other actuator output (DOWN).
Please imagine the actuator as a simple switch, the only difference is, the actuator is controlled through openHAB, the actuator connects either UP or DOWN to 230V (or none of them )
The actuator itself is connected to 230V, not to neutral, as the actuator gets the supply through knx bus, not through 230V. This detail may vary dependent of actuator type (I don’t own an anel hut).
Common ZWave or KNX or other roller shutter actuators have two outputs because all motors need separate input wires for UP and DOWN.
Take that into account if you’re doing your math. An 8-port Anel hut will be able to control only 4 shutters for 159€, or you use 4 Fibaro devices which are 180-200€. Not that much more expensive any more, AND you won’t have any hassle programming and calibrating them.
Also take care that there’s 230VAC and 24VDC versions of shutter motors. Those with 230V should have a ground wire, if yours does not, double-check that it’s not 24 volts.Some motors like @Udo_Hartmann’s have an additional set wire to configure the upper and lower limit for the shutters, but most motors have a mechanical switch or screw to accomplish that.
Or go for 24 volts for all your shutters, then while you need an extra transformator, you DO can install that yourself without danger of electrocution. Note, however that you cannot use the Fibaro FGRM with 24V, it requires 110-230VAC. But there’s a DC shutter model from Qubino to run at 24VDC.
I already know the motors are 230. And I have no desire to do the installation myself. The software configuration is already a nice task.
An 8-port Anel hut will be able to control only 4 shutters for 159€
not fully true, it’s 4 shutters + 8 buttons
yet with an anel hut we have a risk that both up and down are active at the same time, which will kill the motor (I assume) . ok that would be a programming mistake, yet still a risk.
with an actuator like you say, I don’t have that risk. (as it will be either up or down)
so that might be safer.
Fibaro is zWave, which I want to avoid as we don’t know yet how good wireless will work in this passive house.
What would be options for wired based roller shutter actuators that can be controled by openhab?
Well, there’s 2 inputs for a button on each of the ZWave actuators, too.
[quote=“yves, post:52, topic:12563”]Fibaro is zWave, which I want to avoid as we don’t know yet how good wireless will work in this passive house.
[/quote]
Re-read this thread. If you put all zwave actuators in a central cabinet, that won’t be an issue.
None that I know of (other than KNX, which is really expensive).
you can avoid this risk with the correct electrical installation, but modern (electronic) motors should avoid this issue themselve. Is there an option in anel hut to use a changeover contact?
You are right, I even had such a situation by accident, but it didn’t kill my motors
After 2 years experience switching roller shutters with Anel devices (yes, only 4 of them per device), I would probably try another solution next time. The Anel HUT devices work great for switching sockets, lights, even the doorbell, but next time I would prefer dedicated actuators for roller shutters. I would rather like the actuators to take care of exclusive up/down control, ideally also to ask for the current state e.g. in percent. All this must be programmed manually when controlling roller shutters with simple relays…
I agree with @mstormi, putting zwave actuators into your control box (e.g. next to Anel HUT devices) should work for any house.
I connected
avoid this issue themselve. Is there an option in anel hut to use a changeover contact?
