There are a few topics on them already. They work very well!
Nothing really fancy to look at:
It is the outside temperature reading from our new Viessmann Heating system. It uses a Wireless Module (Vitoconnect) to send its data to the company server (which they promote by a prolonged warranty) . There is an API that allows getting/setting data of our system from/via this server and this is my first step in using it.
Here is my home statusboard
Details can be found here
The code will be shared when I’m done testing, probably somewhere this weekend. The code is shared here.
I moved this to the openHAB Stories category. That category was created for this sort of posting.
We love this sort of posting!
Are they back in stock? I wanted to get a couple a few weeks ago but they were out of stock. There is no need to flash the Shellys. They natively support local MQTT and turning off the cloud connection. You can flash them if you want to but don’t have to.
If you have a whole lot of devices I recommend Tasmota over ESP Easy because of https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/TasmoAdmin which will let you centrally admin all the tasmota devices for configs and firmware updates and such.
Very nice. I keep starting a nice display like that and losing interest. Soon perhaps I’ll pick it up again. I like the color scheme. Did you have to find/create the icons or are most of those built in?
I’ve so many projects going right now it’s hard to pick.
Recreating my RPi based garage controller to an ESP8266 but I may have shot myself in the foot as I’m not sure 3.5v is enough to flip this model. The project case I got for it is too small too so I need to deal with both of these problems before I can do much more progress here.
I just got my wife switched over from Dexcom Clarity to xDrip+ and Nightscout and am exploring how/whether to add low/high blood sugar alarms to the automation.
We are still figuring out the ins and outs and settings but so far it works like a charm. It’s FOSS and the API is pretty good. I’m just not sure yet what to do with it from a home automation perspective. Though let me tell you, the OH community runs circles around these guys in terms of documentation and support. Just remember that the next time you want to complain about OH’s docs.
- Systematically exploring and exercising the Experimental Next-Gen Rules Engine to write some documentation for it which you can find in progress for here.
This is taking up the bulk of my time.
- I have parts for but not started a new garage lighting project based on this instructables. The only part I don’t have yet is the Shelly 1 which I want to use to control it. I’ll probably use a sonoff for the time being. But we are in the planning stages of a home addition and want to wait until that gets done before I do it.
The statusboard has been a hit at my house. We mounted it on a 32" display over the door to our garage. It’s a high traffic area for us - not our guests. The single factor that drove me to create this was the fact we kept on missing our junk waste pickups which happen every other month…so when we forgot about them…it was another 60 days before we could throw all of that stuff out. I’ve also included some Telegram reminders that go hand in hand with the display (you helped a great deal with the reminder code and I’m very appreciative)
Have you seen my writeup on how I setup my garage doors and front gate? It was my first OH project and could not have been easier. A few more dollars over the ESP8266 but it’s been fail proof!
The icons came from various icon repositories…I picked a style and tried to get everything matched.
I did but I already have all the sensors and wires in place already. The RPi that I currently have running this is a little flaky though and rather than trying to solve that problem I’m just going to replace it with a microcontroller which should be more reliable.
The only other job this RPi has is as an IP camera. If I separate the controller from the camera I can then position each in a location that is best for each function instead of trying to accommodate both.
And if I were to spend that much I’d probably try to find an Garagio instead of zwave devices.
This is why I put a level shifter on my breakout board - Multi-purpose NodeMCU breakout PCB
^ - I need to update that post, btw - I added a jumper to select 5V/3.3V output power and an external sensor/output connector…The most up-to-date write-up is here. For a project case - you could 3d print mine: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2539897
Just looking at those LEDs (SMD5050s) - they’re going to drive you nuts and burn your retinas if you just mount them straight like that - I’d recommend using the aluminum channels with diffusers (they’re not that expensive over at Amazon).
Speaking of breakout boards…
Are you aware of any ESP8266 boards with screw terminals? I have a couple of simple projects now which these would be great to use on.
My current project is learning to use my ESP8266 and WS2812 lights. Someday they’ll be all over my house but currently I just have my little USB stick with 10 LEDs zip tied to the cord.
@bartus I’ve got my eye on your tutorials for this one…
So far I’ve got OTA updates, MQTT commands, and a VERY simple FastLED loop.
I haven’t come across any ESP8266 breakout boards with screw terminal, but then I don’t use the raw ESP8266 - I prefer NodeMCUs (which are breakout boards of the ESP8266, I guess)…I still have a todo list of changes to the PCB for the next rev (including some suggestions from this forum), but I just haven’t had a chance to sit down and get back into Eagle…Having said that, adding screw terminals to my board might not be feeasible, and I’m considering making a whole new board, more like a test/dev board, rather than something I was trying to fit into an enclosure/finished product…
[EDIT] Forgot to add - beautiful Habpanel layout!! I literally just started making one for my solar system, but nothing quite ready or pretty as yours
I’m a sucker for LEDs - I approve this message!!
I had forgotten about that post. I may have to come back to it and adjust my plans a bit. I have a level shifter already though I intend to use that in preparation to put something in my door bell to shift the 16v down to 5v to power the NodeMCU I want to put in there. I may use it here instead but it’s as big as the NodeMCU is.
I had thought of that but they are 12’-15’ ceilings (there is a bump down at one end). I currently have bare 100w equivalent corn cob style LEDs in the sockets now and it’s not a problem. This is more of an experiment then anything. I’m only <$100 in materials in so far so if it doesn’t pan out that’s fine. I’ll probably just get some shop lights with led “florescent” tubes which would cost about the same as getting 15 meters of the aluminum channels. But at this point I’m months away from the home addition which may include a workshop which will make this project moot.
One reason I care at all about the project case for my garage controller replacement is I want to added some screw terminals. I just bought a bunch and plan on wiring then to the board either through a breadboard, perfboard, or custom pcb. Or I might mount them to the outside of the case and use wires.
I got my nomenclature mixed up. . I meant to say NodeMCU. I really have enjoyed tinkering and my solder skills are not that great, so a screw terminal option would really be a plus for me.
Ah, but the best way to learn soldering is to screw up a few times and get better at it (much like anything, I guess - I’ve destroyed a lot of boards/components before I got diecent at it!
[EDIT] Found one for the ESP8266! https://www.tindie.com/products/AwesomePCB/esp8266-wi-fi-screw-shield/ but nothing for the NodeMCU (makes me think I should make one!)
Not actually today but today I found the photos from the installation.
Motorized shades installed, now to automate its position based on sun, clouds etc.
alwys wanted to do that , was afraid of what will come in the mail
can you tell me what exctly to look for ?(to order)
and what is that cool remote?
I understand your fear, I spent quite some time researching options. At the end I found company from Sweden that sells exactly what I needed. Motor that can be installed inside ikea/kirsch/jysk shades, power supply, roller shutter that works with them, and this nice button remote that works “ok”.
It costed me around 150e per window (some windows are connected together, then it is a bit cheaper as shutter and button are shared). And it is just to hook it up, calibrate the motor (this takes some time to be honest). Also, latest update on the binding broke something so actual state is not reported correctly. I am waiting for the next openhab release to see if it is better.
In my case, it is important to have roller shutter that can change polarity on two cables (see the link down for details of what I have), motor that has only two cables and goes up/down based on polarity on cables. Motor has calibration option, but I think calibration could be done with the roller shutter as well. Honestly, I would not have ordered it if it was not packed in a package and working combination not demonstrated on the website.
This is a Smart Color Button - Philio. It is wireless, gyroscope based “button” that works directly with shutter/motor itself (so if openhab is offline, shades work, which is a must I think). They say battery lasts for 6months, but it is usb rechargeable, so not a biggie. It reports battery level to the controller so that is a plus.
As far as WAF goes, it is wireless and looks nice so that is a plus, but to use it it is a bit, well… different to operate as it is just held by magnet on the holder/wall and has no rotation limitats, so it is not 100% intuitive for first time use as you just turn it and then nothing happens, then you have to wait almost 2s for it to settle and send new position to the shades, and one cannot change direction (at least I didn’t find how) so “left” might be counter intuitive as if shades are open or closed, so it is a bit fiddly to operate. Also it has a tolerance rotation, meaning that fine adjustments for the shades are a bit hit and miss, so… Also by pressing the button, shades goes down and button turns it self off and doesn’t react to rotation… very annoying
But I am hoping that blinds will mostly work automatically so that would not matter that much. And I didn’t find some much better remote dimmer-like controllers for the blinds, so… it works for now. Easy to replace later
Hi some bad automation (bed :))
i like my cable receiver to be same for the all apremtmnet , only two TVs
so i did…
- two sonoff Pows for each TV(to know if on or off) 22$
- one IR repater from living room 2$
- one IR repater from room 2$
- AMP that can route HD , i had one but you can pick one up for 10$
- HD duplicate 12$
- broadlink RM2 to send IR commands 37$
- Mouse, USB dongle from Bed to PC 2$
Setup in short
- Broadlink and POWs are connected to OH
the rest you should know but if anyone wants help do ask i will try my best, cheeers
also have Apple TV , and PC connected to the same amp so i have control for all media devices from bed
just like in the living room
what did it give me?
no need for two apple TVs…
no need for another PC in room(also i love my PC don’t want another one)
no need for another cable box
the POW MQTT butten can have many states , so its very useful MQTT butten
complete control of TVs power and Inputs
don’t mind the cables and the holes, i will cover it up one day