You need a zWave Controller. Youāll get them as USB Sticks or Raspberry Modules.
The FGRS is so small, you can place it behind the original switches. You only need 3 additional, short calbes, to connect the original switch with de FGRS, which get connected with the motor of your shutters.
You can control the shutter from openHAB (Website, Rule etc) or with the original switches.
great, thanks a lot, sihui! Iāll try your stick then :). Have you ever experienced problems with thicker walls or something alike?
Furthermore, could someone maybe also give me a suggestion on which cables are appropriate for wiring the component and the switch and how to optimally perform the wiring? Iām sorry, but Iām not at all an electrician, but more on the coding side. I hope being able to manage this on my own without having to call an electrician nevertheless
Not at all, BUT: zwave provides a meshed network, meaning all mains powered devices extend the range of the network (but not the battery powered devices). So by choosing the correct (or āsmartā) location for those devices you wonāt have any problems with the range ā¦
For the wiring: if you donāt know exactly how to do it hire an electrician, thatās also better for your insurance policy.
If you do know how to do that choose the same diameter for the cabling as currently used (in Germany for power up to the wattage of shutter motors it is 1.5 qmm). Donāt forget that the cable connections (WAGO connectors or similar) take up a lot of space, you will have 6 cables (switch up, switch down, motor up, motor down, hot, neutral) going into that FGR222, so you may need an extra receptacle.
e.g. Here: Zwave stick recommendations for 2016 & migration advice
If you will extend your zWave network in the future, take a look at the backup capabilities of the zWave Controller (USB Stick). Otherwise you have to re-include every device, if the controller breaks up.
An @sihui said, zWave builds up a mesh network.
I use zWave in a rock solid 120qm flat and had never problems with the zWave connection.
many thanks for your input! Iāll definitely read through the article about the sticks and try to determine which one is most appropriate for my use case.
Iām living in a solid house from the 1950s with quite a lot of concrete Right now, my server is located in the attic, but Iām planing to move it down into the basement due to a lower temperature down there, especially in summer. Of course, there wonāt be no roller shutter devices being used in the basement, so the connection need to be stable through the floors from basement to attic. As far as I understood, the stick need to be āstrongā enough to pass one floor as the actors on the ground floor will extend the reach that would in turn need to be enough for reaching the 2nd floor and so on. As the costs for the stick are very affordable in comparison to the costs for the CCU, I think Iāll give it a try and see how far I get ;).
@Christian: Great to have someone in here who uses both worlds :). I have two switches per shutter that are blocking each other, so I have to move both up in order to be able to move one of them downwards to open or close the shutter. As far as I understood, this āmechanicā approach needs to be reflected in the electronic part and I understood Homematic not offering solutions for these kind of switches. That also corresponds to your image that (if I understand correctly) represents one switch that can be moved up in order to open and down in order to close the shutter. Exchanging all switches might be possible, but would increase the costs quite significantly, thatās why I was searching for a solution that allows me to keep my switches as they are and āonlyā add some piece that allows me to access the shutters also from my OH. As far as I understood, the zWave approach would work here while Homematic doesnāt - Can you confirm? Iām wondering why would have had to exchange all switches with zWave while youāve been able to keep them with Homematic which appears to be the other way aroundā¦
Furthermore, could you explain in more detail what you mean with āthe roller shutters are not easy to accessā?
I donāt know really about how much space is available in the flush sockets and if this would be sufficient for the one or the otherā¦ Actually, Iām just hoping for the best here
If the stick isnāt powerfull enough and you have not enough devices for a stable mesh-network (that means, that a zwave device donāt need a direct communication to the controller, when it reaches another zwave device) you can buy zwave range extenders like this Zwave Extender
I had the same problem. I have the normal Wall outlets (Unterputzdosen), which have 46mm depth (I think). It was a little bit pain to get everything back at its place, but it worked (and Iām a Officeworker and not a binford tool using Tim )
One last little quote:
I had āintelligent switchesā for the shutter. That means, you can tip once for the direction, tip long for saving time and so on. They didnāt work with the Fibaro, because the Fibaro needs the electrical load to determine when the end-positions are reached.
I am also interested in a roller shutter solution integrated in my OH1 installation. But I am a little confused how this works?!
At the moment I already have a wireless solution based on hardware from āBecker Antriebssystemeā. A wall switch with radio communication to the roller shutter. As this seems to be an isolated solution from Becker at 868Mhz (and therefor not compatible with OH), I am thinking about changing this to a Zwave based solution (for which I already have several other devices).
I have read about the Fibaro FGRS-222 (also in this thread) and it seems to be a good device. But what I do not understand is, where I have to place this device to work properly? It seems that it can be mounted behind an appropriate wall switch. But how does the motor gets the commands? Is there another device connected to the motor? There is no wired connection between the wall switch and the motor.
And if the other way round (Fibaro device directly connected to the motor), how do the signal from the wall switch get to the roller shutter?
If you buy additional hardware, for example a zwave remote wall switch like this one: https://www.hans-hats.de/zwave-wandsender-c-563_587_616.html
you are able to switch the FGRS-222 without the need of wires.
But itās a bit pricy though ā¦
And: I doubt that your existing wireless solution has separate connectors for āupā and ādownā commands which you would need for connecting the FGRS-222 ā¦
You may configure the FGR222 for momentary switches (Taster) or toggle switches (Ein/Aus Schalter). You may even configure the device for a single momentary switch:
Parameter 14. Switch type.
The parameter settings are relevant for Roller Blind Mode and
Venetian Blind Mode (parameter 10 set to 0, 1, 2).
0 - Momentary switches
1 - Toggle switches
2 - Single, momentary switch. (The switch should be connected to
S1 terminal)
Default setting: 0
Parameter size: 1 [byte]
This is obviously not the answer I wanted to get! Ok, then this project is already at itās endā¦ I canāt make a wired connection and everything else indeed is too pricy.
But do I understand right: When I integrate the roller shutter like in your picture, I can control the roller shutter with a wall switch AND (because of zwave) also with OH, right? Does OH recognizes when I press the wall switch? Does OH āknowā that the blinds are down if I let them go down with the wall switch?
All right, folks! Iāve now just placed an order for the following products:
Aeotec AEOEZW090-C Aeon Labs USB Stick
Z-Wave Aeon Labs Zwischenstecker mit Strommessfunktion, AEO_SES3_EU
Z-Wave Fibaro Jalousiesteuereinsatz Rev 02,FGR-222
I wanted to post the Amazon links, but for some reason, Iām not allowed to due to being a new user. So this is the articleās titles on Amazon instead, just in case this might help someone considering buying the same products.
My first attempts are as following:
Establish a working connection to the roller shutter actor that Iāll try to have installed in the bathroom by an electrician (he doesnāt know anything about this plan yet). The bathroom is is pretty close to the server and Iām hoping to receive a little ātraining sessionsā from my electrician in order to achieve the skills to reproduce the procedure for other rooms in the future ;). Iāll try to get this working in OH in a way that I can trigger a shutter moving up or downwards via the OH app as well as having the current status of the roller shutter (opened/closed) being shown in the UI.
Iāll plug the switchable plug with metering functionality (is there any smaller term for this?) before my dryer and try to achieve power being cut off as soon as the dryer has finished his job and the consumption descreases under a certain threshold that i might have to determine before, I guess?
any hints and tips are still very much appreciated :). Many many thanks to all of you for your great help!
Iāll keep you posted about my progress :).
I ve got 5 of the fibaro roller shutter. all of them have to be configuratet as a toggle Switch. I only could configurate two of them as toggle Switch. the other 3 dont save the configuration. if i save it, theres is written Thing updatet and a few seond of this the error 404 appears. i allready rebootetd my rpi3 and the Switches. do you have got any ideas?
If two of them work and three donāt, I guess you must have configured them differently.
Or the three non working devices have a different firmware version and they are not yet in the database (but I doubt that).
Check the things āAttributesā if they are all the same (Type, ID and firmware version). That can be done via HABmin, select the Thing, on the right hand side take a look at āAttributesā.
Thank you for your answer,
I could find and handle all five of them. Just the configuration as a toggle Switch wasnāt acceptet at all of the Roller shutters. Now I was abble to configurate 4 of them as a toggle switch. Just the only one doesnt accept the configuration.
I checked the hide properties of this Roller shutter and I saw that:
zwave_frequent false
I canceled and resetet the Roller shutter allready but still the sameā¦