Looking for a solution

Would this work to control my fan with some kind of scene controller?

Edit: My thought is to use this with something like the inovelli no neutral switch in scene control mode hooked to the outside light. would it be possible to pass the inovelli thru another inovelli? So i maintain two switches in the box but both just pass current thru first from one to the other then to the outside lights (on motion detector) and both act as scene control for the lights and fan of this relay? with the power for the ceiling fan just tied?

I just scanned this thread quickly. It appears you are in the US. One of our users is working to get this double fan switch supported in OH.

Wiring may be an issue though.

Yeah I saw that one - with no neutral that won’t work for me. Inovelli is working on “project hurricane” but no neutral won’t be supported in the first version which is not out itself yet.

Use the above in. Junction Box beside your fan or use an extension ring on your existing box up in the Fan

I would totally do that - but my insurance will not cover fires due to non rated equipment. And my luck would be that even if it didn’t cause it they would find that it’s just being there would be cause to deny the payment.

I want anything I install to be rated.

Actually the Power converter is UL CSA approved … So technically it rated for use and it’s internally Fused so shots and fires are un likely especially if your only controlling a fan or light I was using mine on a 15 Amp pump no issues … My advise would be to install it in a standard 1110 Device box Metal with proper grounding and wiring practices …

Arguing with insurance adjusters does not work like that. Is it E-marked? Is it UL approved?

Yes … You can also get your devices approved yourself… By getting an inspection stamp on them from an inspection authority … I’ve done it before on a power distribution Box I designed for a data company… https://recom-power.com/pdf/Powerline_AC-DC/RAC02-GA.pdf

Ok - After lots of looking, I think I may have a solution but need more info.
(Not a perfect solution as it uses batteries but…)

My idea is to use the relay I posted above with the Lutron Aurora dimmer knob.

My question is whether the Aurora is supported in Openhab or if it can be supported easily.

It is Zigbee HA 3.0 .
(And I know I said I didn’t want Zigbee but after some testing, I think that my problems with Zigbee were (a) due to having my hub next to my wifi router, and (b) the switch I was using. I have moved the hub to the room in question so that should solve that issue.)

I know @chris normally deals with compatibility questions and adding support but he probably is busy with other projects so if this isn’t supported what can I do to help it be supported.

If this is a simple dimmer, then it should be supported - at least with an Ember dongle. Other dongles may not work due to ZB3.0 requirements.

Of course without testing, I can’t be 100% sure, but the binding ought to bind the services of a device like this and it should therefore support it.

It’s not actually a dimmer - it’s sort of a remote - it locks your dumb toggle in the on position and then provides a remote for adjusting or controlling other smart items. My idea is to use it with a Zwave fan and light control module (posted further up in this thread) but wanted to check before spending $40usd on it. If it is not supported at this time and is not something that can be easily added I will keep looking for a better solution.

Edit: I would also take the hue dimmer remote if it works as there is a plate that allows it to be mounted over the switch and leave the switch on.

Does anybody know of a product like the aurora knob linked above that definitely works with openhab?

I want something small and “normal” looking as opposed to something that is sticking out from the switch and different from a normal control.

After much research, the only way I see that maintains physical control in my setup (available right now) is to use a relay in the box and a remote or scene controller over the switch. No scene controllers that I have found that are small and look similar to a normal switch or dimmer knob are known to work with openhab (don’t mean they won’t work but I’m not willing to spend $40+ on a maybe). The other option is to go with something with buttons but my wife doesn’t want that as that option is “ugly”. I will be leaving this open for further discussion but as of now, I plan to wait until the aurora is confirmed working with openhab or Inovelli releases the no neutral version of the “project hurricane” switches. If someone suggests something that will work within my constraints before then I will give it a shot. Please don’t hesitate to add ways to do this even if they don’t meet all my constraints as others may find the information useful.

There s a solution … I could design a board for you that works off batteries (not connected to power but the problem is is the relay connected to power … Be very careful …If your insurance company is going to be sticky about CSA UL approved devices look at all your plug in USB devices you bought at a gas station I’ll bet most of them are not UL approved and came over on the boat so To speak … You could be in danger there … I looked at a few of mine no markings anywhere on them … NADA …

All my wall adaptors are listed - I don’t hook my $800+ phone to a no name gas station charger - I don’t even use gas station cables. I have worked safety so I’m a bit picky about things like that.

I’m not wanting battery powered unless it’s in or on the current switch box. Don’t want battery powered items up in the attic.

I have found a listed solution for switching the power in the attic but I need a solution for signaling it at the switch side that looks (mostly) like a normal wall control (toggle, rocker, or dimmer knob). And that works with openhab.

Yea …Id stay away from anything you need to put into an attic …Its hard to see if its having issues … I’m an electrician by trade (Canadian Red Seal ) most of what I design is rated for use but not certified (Yet )…So I take it you don’t have a neutral in your switch box which is why your having this issue //Most things need a neutral or ground …unless its battery powered …What you can use is a 3 way motion activated switch that communicated with another switch …that has a neutral …Most 3 gang switch boxes have a neutral in them as its a way for the circuit to be run that doesn’t exceed the box fill rule which is why some boxes only have a 2 wire switch leg going to it …google skylink wireless 3 way http://www.skylinkstore.com/store/us/us-wireless-home-control/starter-kits/skylinkhome-sup-small-tm-small-sup-3-way-on-off-kit.html …then put your wireless IP controlled switch beside the wired one using the switch leg to activate it

Their landlord might freak out too it could invalidate any fire insurance.

Yup if they know about it