No.
I’d be surprised if that changes anything. The known issue with these particular sticks is that the RPi4 attempts to communicate with them as USB3 devices and fails. That’s why a USB2 hub is considered to be a quick and reliable solution.
EDIT: I see now that this is an offshoot from another discussion. I’d forgotten about the resistor hack.
No, you may use the zwave binding.
and the last question. I live in a 3 floor house. The server is in a basement. Do you think the small UZB will manage the distance between z-wave nodes?
I just found these:
would you consider these if you had to choose the controller again?
Distance is never an issue as the zwave network will build a mesh network with all mains powered devices.
You just have to buy enough mains powered devices and place them accordingly.
As already said before: openHAB does not support 700 series controllers
ups. thanks for the warning again.
I found these two:
is it worth to invest in the one with z-way controller SW on it?
If you want to use the z-way binding, you will need a license which is included in the expensive uzb controller.
If you want to use the zwave binding, you can stick to the cheaper one.
There is a limit to the number of hops from Z-Wave controller to Z-Wave device: IIRC 4 hops.
I don’t think a private house will be that big.
Controller in basement, device on the 3rd floor, no way to define routes manually: might be a problem (connectivity and/or latency). Solution would be obvious: Place the controller on the 1st or 2nd floor …
The reason for keeping the controller in basement is a common server place supported by Power Backup UPs. At the moment with the bigger Aeotec USB controller it works. I have 35 z-wave nodes on different floors. At each floor there is at least one powered node with 230V (Shutter controller from FIBARO) what i believe makes the signal stronger.
What additional value brings this z-way software exactly in compression to OpenHAB? I am not a professional who understands the z-wave protocol itself but if this will help me to configure my network more stable and reliable or faster maybe it is worth to invest?
No idea, I have never used it.
I recommend to search the forum for answers.
Can you share more details on your network configuration? How many nodes you have (powered/battery). What is your hous/flat structure? Do you use zwave repeaters? Maybe such a device would help in my case.
Do you have problems with including/excluding nodes?
What tools you use to debug the z-wave network, if any?
I decided to try out UZB without the z-way license. Rely on you experience @sihui 
Re debugging:
- ZWave - Bindings | openHAB
- [SOLVED] Unresponsive Z-Wave Network: Tools and Approaches to track down the issues
Use the Z-Wave Network Map
to get a basic idea about the neighbors of each Z-Wave device. Note that the relationships in the Network Map do not necessarily correspond to routes of the Z-Wave packets. The routing is done by the Z-Wave controller and AFAIK the routes cannot be overridden by the user. You might consider using Zigbee, IIRC max hop is 10 (30 for Zigbee Pro). But if your Z-Wave network spans 4 flloors and you cannot get it to work reliably, I would place the Z-Wave controller on the first or second floor (even if you would have to install additional hardware (UPS, …), it is cheaper than replacing Z-Wave with Zigbee ).
Thanks for this post.
this is true indeed. Let me check if it works from basement and then eventually move one floor up
25 total, 16 mains powered, 9 battery powered.
2 story, all solid brick, also the inner walls. Around 140 squaremeters.
As said before: zwave is building a mesh network, all mains powered devices are repeaters.
No, never, not even with battery powered devices.
Never had to debug anything, it is just working 
thx. Let me wait for my new UZB Stick and try it out
Don’t forget an extension cable: