Roller blind 12V motor (2 wire) HW control options using MQTT


(Rob) #21

You can use a Broadlink RM pro to emulate the remote signals.
That’s how I control my RF projector screen.


(scott dee) #22

Most of the (electric) roller blind options I see here in the US start probably $300 or more per window. I never thought to look at ebay for these budget motors. How do you go about integrating these into a roller shade? can anyone provide a link to a shade these would fit into?


(rsemmens) #23

Yer most roller blind controllers are not cheap. I have a current system with the controllers built into the motors. These are failing after about a year and give no positional control.

I have made progress on my own controller, version 1(very getto!) is done but as with these things i already have a V2.0 in progress. Spec wise it can control 4 blinds with self calibration and positional control.
V2 will be a lot simpler to make but the same spec, i’m designing a PCB which cheap ebay modules will plug into so no mad wiring needed just a little easy soldering required, I’m basing it on the ESP32 with oled screen, which means it can have a status screen. Using MQTT means it can be used with any home automation worth its salt.

Once done i’ll upload the code, item examples and PCB files.


(Steve) #24

Cool looks neater than my spaghetti board, would love to see the the OLED etc. when finished. I think there is a growing interest in DIYing blinds using the 2 wire 12V motors :slight_smile:


(Brian M. Pedersen) #25

how did you connect the motor to you blinds?
isn’t 50 rpm too littel for effective motor control? I was thinking more in 200 rpm


(rsemmens) #26

I own a 3d printer so I was able to print the fittings needed for my blinds tubes. The fittings seem to be fairly generic tho so long as you get a tube motor sized to your blinds.
50 rpm is plenty for raising or lowering the blinds I find. It takes about 32 seconds to raise fully with a 110cm blind. If you were running 200rpm it would take about 8 seconds! Torque is more important I feel.


(Daniel) #27

I own a special headrail for roman shades with an interior diameter of 30mm. With some angle made out of steel i fixed in place the geared motor and for the coupling with blinds shaft(a 5x5 mm squared) i used a flexible couple like this https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32693571252.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32693571252&.


(Daniel) #28

Already use a Sonoff RF Bridge to emulate the remote, but i need some rule based on time needed for complete open/close since the motor don’t have a start stop switch contact, so i need to send up/down command followed by stop command after 20 sec


(Rob) #29

something like this will do the job:

Screen.sendCommand("SCREEN_DOWN")
createTimer(now.plusSeconds(20)) [| Screen.sendCommand("SCREEN_UP") ]

(Daniel) #30

And the motor provide 60rpm wich is more then good for blinds


(rsemmens) #31

You could use some kind of contact sensor (I’m thinking a small RF window/door sensor to monitor the rotation of the motor output, count the output in openhab. That would give you some basic position and start stop value. Have a count item which is increased by 1 every rotation (eg, close) and decreased by one when spinning the opposite direction (eg, opening).
Not as accurate as a mechanical end stop but might be worth a look.


(Steve) #32

The tubular blind motors appear to have adjustable internal hard stops, you may be able to shorten it to fit the roman blinds. This has been on my list of things for a while


(rsemmens) #33

Well i have the made some nice progress. I have parts on order and the PCB design almost done.
I just need to wait on some bits arriving and then i can start changing the code to work on the ESP32.


(Steve) #34

Great looking board, which package do you use


(rsemmens) #35

All done online with a site called Easy EDA takes a little to get used to but you design the schematic and then lay out the PCB.


(Steve) #36

Thanks, what a great package, already layed out a board ready to order.


(rsemmens) #37

I found an issue with one of the modules they had in their library, some of the pins don’t match up and the size seems physically to small on the PCB so i have one on order confirm before i order. Im hoping the size change means i can keep it below 100 x 100mm. I have a backup plan to use a diffrent H-bridge motor driver just in case.
Always have a backup plan!