Has anyone else out there got an SSR302 zWave 2 channel heating/boiler switch working correctly?
I had a British Gas UP1 (Circa 1999) on my heating (A Potterton profile 100e) that was annoyingly basic. So I replaced it with an SSR302 after verifying that the wiring did appear (From the docs I could find) to be identical. The SSR302 fits on the UP1’a backplate fine.
However operation appears to be a bit hit & miss.
The SSR302 has 3 switches. node.0, node.1 and node.2, and I had assumed that like the Qubino and Fibaro dual switches that node.0 was a master on/off and node.1 and node.2 controlled the 2 channels.
In fact operation of these seem to be confirmed via sling down the channel1 and channel2 buttons on the panel and seeing that node.1 and node.2 do indeed make the correct status (Red/Green) appear on the panel.
but despite my efforts to enable node.1 (HW) and disable node.2 (HEAT) I get heating at the same time as HW…
Is my unit faulty? And it’s enabling channel2 despite the RED (Off) LED… or is it my wiring and the UP1 doesn’t really have the same pinouts as the SSR302? (
Note that I can’t actually find any real docs for the UP1. It looks to be a rebadged Drayton unit form the last millennium. But the only docs with pinouts I can find are for the later 522 and 722 units. Which are hinted as being backward compatible with the UP1 (i.e. same wiring) and do have the same wiring as the SSR302. (Lack of diagnostic LED’s on the SSR302 is a pain. As is the fact that it needs to be mounted to work… And once mounted there’s no access to the wiring any more at the panel mean my favourite method of checking with a multi-meter is a bit more challenging (I’ll have to dismantle other bits & pieces to confirm
Update - I found the actual wiring diagram for the UP1 on the reverse of the unit… i forgot it was there… Both diagrams claim to be identical… Although I have no idea what 2 of the 3 jumpers do (One changes from 1 to 7 day… That’s annoying, for 18 years I’ve thought about replacing it with a 7 day unit, and it was able to do it all along)
Oh. I’ve discounted valve problems. The valve does open/close correctly with the UP1 in place. So leaving me with either wiring or a faulty unit… I just don’t know which yet.