I had a Z-Wave paddle switch that I was not happy with.
The rocker had no feedback and most of time it was not picked up properly.
So I soldered some cheap buttons parallel to the on board buttons, removed the battery holder (AAA) and switched to a external AA holder.
I put everything in an old shutter winder case which is not very pretty, but it works.
If I’d know how to 3D print this would be one of the scenarios where it would come quite handy!
I’ve been working on this for a while. I have a sloped ceiling at home and wanted to install a projector screen. As you can understand, this is kind of a problem, unless you want the screen to be floating in the middle of your living room (assuming that, like me, you can’t put it directly on a wall somewhere).
So I used a linear actuator to pull the screen to the ceiling when not in use. Communication is wireless via MySensors.
Here is a short video of it in action:
Also a couple pictures of the “guts” of the mechanism:
The biggest difficulty besides the hardware build, was the software for the controller.
I wanted it to be foolproof in the sense that the screen can’t be rolled out (even by mistake) when it’s not fully extended (as this would ripple it and permanently damage it) and also can’t be retracted if not fully rolled in.
To do this, I added an accelerometer (to check when the screen is fully horizontal) and a reed switch to sense when it’s fully rolled in. I then added checks in the software to make sure what I said above can never happen.
P.S.1 There are a couple of ripples on the screen. Not sure if it’s because it’s not being “stored” horizontally, or it’s just a cheap screen and those would show up anyway.
P.S.2 Turns out the screen is less visible when it’s extended, rather than when pulled up to the ceiling. Something about the lines of the space making it “disappear”. Yeah. Who knew…
Thats pretty nice work indeed.
But I wonder howcome you have to make three (four) pushes to your tablet to activating this. A simple routine would call for only one, and maybe even with voice control, you dont have to do anything else, than speak
Yes, you’re right, i don’t really like the way it works either.
However, it’s not that simple, because there are choices involved. One choice is between input, do you want to watch something on Chromecast (e.g. Netflix) or HTPC? Second choice is output, watch something on the TV or projector?
I guess voice would work (“watch Netflix on TV” or something like that), but through the tablet you have to make these choices somehow. You don’t want the master switch to turn on both the TV and projector, for example. Input is not a big problem, because if you want to use the same as last time, you won’t have to change it every time.
I’m planning to make improvements, but I was quite excited to get it working so I didn’t want to wait before posting
Moving to my new house…
i have decided to wire the all place right…
i had allot of CAT11 and coaxial cables of the old infrastructure, and i dont need them at all …
so i got myself 250 meters of CAT6A U/FTP cable , and got to work
right now i own two reolink 510 , but i think i am going to move from reolink
still looking for the right camera , then i will buy another 10
at least i got all cables in place , that was importent to finish early when i still have helping hands
of my handyman, i will go crazy on aliexpress later
would you mind sharing your items, sitemap and rules from your garden watering? I had several attempt to implement exactly what you did but it still doesn’t work. My WAF is decreasing, thus I would highly appreciate if you could help me with your code.
I find it difficult to decide on cameras. I have some Unify stuff in place now, but I don’t really have cables everywhere, due to the fact it is a rental house. But I don’t think wifi cameras on batteries are a viable alternative, as I don’t feel like changing batteries all the time… the search continues
5m - 50 leds.
I used 1 stripe for up and down.
So I do have a 24 x 25 matrix for 180 degrees.
Nothing compared with the big mega trees that are made with 14000 leds.
Hi there, here is my Pool Monitor to measure the temperature of my swimming pool water. It’s a simple project based on an esp8266 + ESP Easy firmware, with a specific rule to overcome a little challenge in the measurement.
Here comes the challenge. When the pump is off and the water is still, the temperature sensor starts measuring the ambient temperature, which can be different from the water temperature by far.
Luckily my pump is controlled via openHAB so I know when the pump is off and with a simple openHAB rule I stop reading the temperature.
rule "PoolTemperature start of measurement"
when
Item PumpPiscina_Switch changed to ON
then
if (PoolTemperature_timer === null) {
logInfo("PoolTemperature", "PoolTemperature: pump switched ON, starting timer to delay initial measurement.")
PoolTemperature_timer = createTimer(now.plusSeconds(60*3), [|
logInfo("PoolTemperature", "PoolTemperature: timer expired, measurement starts.")
PoolTemperature_measuring.sendCommand(ON)
PoolTemperature_timer = null
])
}
else
PoolTemperature_timer.reschedule(now.plusSeconds(60*3))
end
rule "PoolTemperature end of measurement"
when
Item PumpPiscina_Switch changed to OFF
then
logInfo("PoolTemperature", "PoolTemperature: stopping measurement")
PoolTemperature_measuring.sendCommand(OFF)
end
rule "PoolTemperature measurement"
when
Item PoolTemperature_raw received command
then
if (PoolTemperature_measuring.state == ON)
PoolTemperature.postUpdate(receivedCommand)
end
Here you can see how the raw temperature (dark blue) and the measured temperature (light blue) differ, the red line showing the activation of the pump (2 shifts of 30 minutes, as we are in winter now):