What I thought (as layman) that I will only need a connector to be soldered in the highlighted panel (attached) which looks like the one responsible to open the door lock, then use OH to send a command to connect.
You need to find out what signal is on those connector. Dry contacts without any voltage? Then you could use a Zwave Universal Binary module. Or a Window/Door sensor with external contacts.
Or do you need a relay to drive any voltage to it?
Lot’s of things to consider and unfortunately your are not giving much information to answer your questions.
This device works by wifi and is controlled with the ewelink android application, which works as a Wi-Fi switch and is small, you could place it inside the phone’s case, you only need a 220V or USB 5V power supply
Who would have thought that people would start stealing cars using a signal booster to make the car think the keyfob in your pocket in your house is actually next to the car and allow thieves unlock and steal the car? Five years ago the venn diagram of people who want to steal cars and have the ability to perform such attacks were separate circles. Now for around $150 you can buy a device off eBay to do this and it’s become routine.
For now there is no problem. In the future who knows. Maybe hacking zwave locks will become routine. Any risk decision needs to be revisited as the threat environment changes.
Sorry, I was away for sometime. Busy with work and study.
I made a mistake in my previous post when I hilighted the lines which should be connected to open the door.
Today, I took a screwdriver and open the intercom and found that the two highlighted metal (attached) are the responsible to open the door when they are connected.
What kind of switch, button, etc shall I use to do it.
PS. Security is not a matter here, in fact most of the time the door is open, but there are times when it is closed and it shouldn’t be. So, I want an easier way to open. For example, I am at work and I have a parcel to be delivered. How can the courier enter?
Quickest, easiest way would probably be to bridge the two contacts using an opto isolator. You don’t need the driving current for a relay or have to worry (very much) about any voltage on the device side. An opto isolator and a resistor are all you need plus a (analog or digital) output. I’ve retro-fitted quite a few devices around with the house this way. Also requires much less space than a relay - you could get it in to the intercom with room to spare.
I have a tendency to use 4N35s but the only specifications you’re really after in this case are the driving current and the isolation itself.