A simple technique is to adapt a door sensor which uses a magnet and a reed switch. Normally, closing a door moves a magnet on the door close to the sensor on the frame, magnetises two metal strips in a glass vial, which closes the circuit and triggers the sensor.
Inside a ‘ding-dong’ doorbell is a basic solenoid - press the button, the coil energises and a rod which hits two metal bars. The solenoid also produces a wider magnetic field, which is enough to reliably trigger a Z-Wave door sensor next to the coil.
I simply added a Z-Wave Fibaro FGK-10x inside the ding-dong doorbell and reconfigured the sensor to normally open.
To keep the sensor isolated from doorbell voltages you could wire a relay or even opto-coupler in parallel with a bell and the switch contacts to a door sensor. Most UK doorbells are 8-12v AC, which is not ideal to interface with 3.3v, 5v, or 12v sensor inputs.
A door intercom is a lot more complex, as it is likely to use 2 or 4 wires for the bell, audio and power. Reliably detecting a door bell push will need a lot more experimentation to work out what happens across which wires. I’ve seen systems with different number of doors or intercoms use very different circuitry (e.g. bpt, Fermax, etc).
I have connected my ancient doorbell to openHAB using less then $10 of hardware:
sonoff basic
programming tool
Re-using the old doorbell button and the bell itself. I have placed the sonoff in-between button and bell transformer, receiving updates in openahb when someone rings the bell. Next to that I have a switch in openhab that sets if the bell should ring or light should flash someone is at the door. A notification is send to the openhab app too…
Do you mind sharing a few more details about your hardware configuration (connections)?
I was thinking about doing the same, using a Sonoff TH 10, but I didn’t think it would work as the Sonoff requires an input voltage in the range 90-250VAC (according to specifications), and I am pretty sure my bell transformer is nowhere near that - probably more like 18-36 VAC.
Thanks a lot for your detailed description. I see now that you put the Sonoff at the “high voltage side” (230VAC) of the transformer - clever!
The examples I had seen before yours, put the “smart relay” at the “low voltage side” of the transformer, so I was kind of stuck in this mode of thinking.
Quite a number of other examples that I have seen are only focused on the sensor part (i.e. detecting and reporting" a button press). I very much like the idea of being able to de-couple the actuator part (i.e. the ringing of the bell) from the sensor part.
Given that I have a box of Sonoff’s laying on the shelf, I think I know what my weekend project will be,
All,
Thanks a lot for all your detailed responses.
As I have some kind of intercom (no video) from Elcom one of the intercom suggestions might fit.
I just need some time to digest it ;-).
What about the Fibaro Zwave Universal sensor: https://manuals.fibaro.com/binary-sensor/
Just two wires coming from the bell, inside the house you can use a power supply.
Works great for me.
Because of range? I’m using a lot of mains powered zwave devices. so even outside my house there are no range problems with zwave non-plus devices, thanks to mesh.
Since the universal sensor is relaying, it will downgrade any zwave+ passing through it to plain zwave. Probably isn’t a problem, but last time I reset my zwave network I made decision to have all relaying components as zwave+.
Zwave+ is supposed to have a bit lower latency, not sure it is noticeable. I don’t have any range problems, same as you I have a fair amount of zwave nodes.