This weekend I secured my OH server and Router with an uninterruptible power supply (UPS device: Eaton Ellipse ECO with USB) - nothing special, so there are no fancy pictures.
Of course its monitored by OpenHABs NUT (Network UPS Tools) binding 
a big thank you to the coders.
Initial test shows that the 650er UPS can power it for at least half hour 
Missing is a rule that pushes a message to my phone via LTE-USB stick. Any hints how to implement this?
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I can help 
I have a very similar setup, Iām rocking an Eaton 850VA, also with NUT.
What I did was to create an automation with node red and a telegram bot.
So I can ask at any point the current duration of the battery. And if it falls down to under 300 seconds then it triggers a dialog (through telegram as well) which will lead to starting a save shutdown. This last
Part is not yet implemented though.
(Sorry about the Portuguese, usually I have everything in English. Itās a basic setup though. The first couple messages itās a simple
Information stating when the blinds are opening/closing. Then I ask how long the UPS lasts, and it returns the actual value in minutes. Hope this explanation is good enough.)
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my latest and greatest
still not even 20% doneā¦ i have 20 stairs to wire up 
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Very cool. Are you controlling these with Arduino and WLED? Do you have a motion sensor that triggers and then Openhab sends the command?
Agree with the user above. We need more details!
ahh wanted to an orgnize post but i will tell
- for now i use an ESP8266(need to upgrade to a dig uno) and yes WLED
- still no conncted to my setup, i have planty of PIR around the house so i will use them as input
- acuutly i HA user now and not OH
but i like this fourm better
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This looks great! What LED strips are you using?
using WS8211 12V trying to keep the cost downā¦
ok so i could not wait enjoy
Due to the high gas prices I have tried to find out if it makes sense to optimize my gas heating. It is a 27 years old Buderus Logomatic.
I have started to attach a Zigbee door sensor on the gas meter and was able to monitor the gas consumption in real time.
This way I realized that my gas consumption, even in the summer purely for water heating, is very high.
Therefore, I wanted more information from Buderus. The required RS232 interface is no longer offered and is much too expensive. My research brought me to a replica with WLAN and MQTT protocol, which was also much cheaper.
The great part
does now for a few weeks a reliably service in my gas burner and gives me the possibility to analyze everything more detailed.
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[Deleted to stay on topic and not deviate from it]
Oh this is genius! Did you also make the hardware modifications mentioned in that post? Or just use the ZigBee sensor as-is?
No real hardware modifications, I just took it out off the enclosure and into a 3d printed housing, that fits almost perfect.
Itās online since August and there has not been a single missing count or double count. Works absolutely perfect.
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easy tiger
Guys, please.
While I understand your emotions (particularly when it comes to German HVAC vendors ā¦),
please respect the forum rules: this thread is tagged āTutorials & Examplesā and exists to present solutions in a nutshell.
So no discussions, cursing, blasphemy here.
If you canāt hold back please at least move these over to your own, personal thread.
Thank you.
All: if you have questions or extensive comments on any of the presentations leading off-topic, please also open new threads and refer to the post in here.
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I deleted my post to stay on topic.
Thank you for the call out.
I donāt have gas heating, but I noticed a similar behavior with our (old) central oil heating during the summer:
I have three AC voltage sensors for the burner, water circulation pump to hot water storage tank and heating circulation pump. Additionally, a DS18B-forgottheexactpartnumber temperature sensor in the hot water storage tank. All sensors report to OH and get persisted.
Checking the graphs during the summer revealed, that the heating controller only allows a very small drop in the hot water temperature, before it starts the burner again. This uses up a lot of oil and unnecessarily keeps the hot water at minimum at the set temperature (and ~10K above).
To improve the situation, I added a solid state relay (requires next to no power during a day, compared to a mechanical relay) and a potentiometer to the hot water temperature sensor of the heating controller. I canāt remember, if it was installed in series or in parallel to the sensor, but that depends on the sensor type. The potentiometer is adjusted to add ~10K to the temperature reading for the central heating, when the relay gets activated (check with the heating service menu).
Then I have a small OH rule, that gets triggered when the pump for the hot water heating circulation pump shuts off. If the water temperature is above 55Ā°C, then it activates the relay.
Another rule turns the relay off, when the water temperature drops below 40Ā°C.
This small modification reduces the number of short burner runs significantly during the day.
Now, the central heating heats the water to a bit above its normal setpoint. As it stops the circulation pump, it suddenly āseesā the water temperature at 65Ā°C instead of the real 55Ā°C. As the water cools off during the day, the temperature, that the controller āseesā is still within its tolerance window, so it doesnāt heat again. As OH shuts off the relay, the controller suddenly sees too cold water and heats it up again.
An additional improvement to reduce heat loss a lot is my modification of the hot water circulation through the house: The circulation pump can be programmed for a whole day, but only in 30 min intervals (minimum ON time: 30 min). This is unnecessary, as 30 minutes is much too long and as I am no robot, I do not need warm water at exactly the same time each day.
Instead, I set the pump to always-on and switch it with a Sonoff mini zigbee relay now. In each room where hot water is available, I placed a small Sonoff zigbee PIR motion sensor.
Now, if any motion sensor triggers, a rule checks if the last pump run is more than 15 minutes ago. If yes, it turns on the circulation pump of 1 minute. If the last pump run was less than 15 minutes ago, nothing happens. This means, that the pump will always only run for 1 minute, and no more than every 15 minutes.
Now, if nobody is home or entering rooms with a sink, no heat is lost in circulating water. Also, you will get hot water any time of the day (before, the pump was off during the night). The only downside is that it can take up to 20 seconds after entering a room, until hot water is available, if the pump has been off for a long time.
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Was able to get the Xmas Tree up and running just before snow 
This year with sound! Neighbors are totally in love 
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This is exactly what Iām planning on building. I was the one that left you a comment on youtube video. I donāt think thereās a way to send messages here but Iād love to get your parts list and code if youāre willing to share. My email is ryross@gmail.com
I built my wife a little gadget for the home office: a co2 sensor for the desk.
LED turns on when you should open the windows and begins to blink when the co2 levels get ācriticalā. Itās a build with a MHZ19C sensor and an ESP8266 microcontroller. My first use of Tasmota for this project. Of course there is an OH integration 
The box is made from 4mm birch plywood.
This is what a workday may look like (you can tell that my son still has school holidays by the late start at about 11 
):
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