What did you build/automated today (with pictures)?

So, back in the HABpanel days, I had built a custom UI in Vue.js, because I didn’t like the customization options that HABpanel offered (mainly in terms of layout/navigation) but also because it wasn’t responsive.

With the introduction of the new UI, I pondered on whether I should ditch my interface and build everything from scratch, or keep extending it. I still liked my UI’s look and feel and navigation more, but also saw it was easier to extend and customize things using the default UI.

So I thought and thought and finally came up with a middle ground! I made some custom widgets which follow my UI’s look and feel and put them in a layout page. Then, I loaded this layout page in an iframe in one of my own pages.

The result is that now I can open my UI:

click on a tab/menu option and be taken to this page:

which is an openHAB layout page with a changed background, custom widgets, in dark theme, with the drawer closed. Yes, I still have the black header but I think this is a minor compromise.

It also works great in terms of responsiveness:

Yes, iframes are the devil’s work, I know. But, lo and behold, sometimes they can offer a legitimate solution to a (first world) problem :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

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Hey everyone,

Today or better the last weeks I’ve build my dimmersetup for ceiling spot lights.

Specifications:
Inputs
230v 3 phases
2x ethernet
10 x 24v Inputs (switches)
outputs
12x pwm dimmer with switched power
3x pwm dimmer
10A @24v 240W for LEDs

There are 3 dimmer with 5 channels each. Every
dimmer is individually brigeable withe a switch, so that I can use the lights even when a dimmer is defect.
The dimmer are controlled by DMX and there is a Ethernet to DMX controlled build in.

The power supplie has an 24V output signal witch is signalling 80% load so openhab can limit the brightness of the lights.

The digital fuse can be reseted through an Input of the Fuse by Openhab. It also signals an Switched off channel.

Devices:
Dimmer: Miboxer D5-CX
power supplie: PHOENIX CONTACT QUINT-PS/1AC/24DC/10/CO - 2320911
digital fuse: BLOCK PM-0724-400-0
I/O: Siemens LOGO! 24 RCE - 6ED1052-1HB08-0BA1
Siemens LOGO! 8 DM8 24R - 6ED1055-1HB00-0BA2
DMX: Ulrich Radig DMX Ethernet Box Hutschiene

i hope more people will poste here i find it quite interessting.

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Could you name the devices you used pleased? Is this a PS w/ Ethernet ?
How are those 2 features implemented ?
(edit your post or open a new thread, please)

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Hi,

stumbled upon this thread (again) and thought I’d share what I “built” recently.

First of all, I have to mention that I use edge automation as a fallback where possible. E.g., that’s the key reason I decided to use the Homematic IP system around my house, because the devices have timers integrated and can interact without the central server.
Furthermore you can (partly) control how often status messages are sent and thus reduce electromagnetic waves.

So, I have an electric kettle, this guy (coffee addict - but that’s another story…) :coffee:
The kettle keeps the water at the selected temperature. As the water cools down, the heating element fires up for a moment, until the target temperature is reached.

It even detects if there’s no water inside, just not to heat up then. And this is the part of the kettle, that does not work reliable.
I found it “warming” up some time after I used it, just because I forgot to disarm it manually.

To come around this, I used a smart plug able to be flashed with Tasmota. Nowadays, it’s not that easy to find one of those. So I bought one which came with Tasmota preloaded from Aliexpress - a good source for information is here.
After I flashed the device with a clean instance of Tasmota (never trust the manufacturer :nerd_face: ), the fun started.

Firstly, please make sure to calibrate your plug. I won’t go in detail here, the process is perfectly described over at the Tasmota docs.

I built 3 rules to achieve my goals. They are in the order I programmed them, you can swap, if you want.

Rule 1

The 1st rule manages the behaviour of the user button. If you do a long press, you can toggle Wifi on/off.
To get this to work, you have to set some options once via the Tasmota console:

Backlog ButtonTopic 0; SetOption1 1; SetOption11 0; SetOption32 20

Then put the rule in:

Rule1 
	ON System#Boot DO var1 1 ENDON 
	ON Button2#State=3 DO IF (var1==1) Wifi 0; var1 0 ELSE Wifi 1; var1 1 ENDIF ENDON

Activate the rule with command Rule1 1.

Rule 2

Rule2
	ON Energy#Power<1000 DO RuleTimer1 600 ENDON
	ON Energy#Power>=1000 DO RuleTimer1 0 ENDON
	ON Rules#Timer=1 DO Power 0 ENDON

It checks it the power drawn is more than 1 kilowatt. That’s only the case when heating up the whole kettle first, not when keeping water warm.
If the power is less than this threshold, you’re either in standby or warming mode. The rule sets a timer to expire in 10 Minutes. If you start a heating process, the timer is reset (line 2).

For this rule, you have to activate the one shot detection (Rule2 5)and turn it on (Rule2 1).

Rule 3

Turns off wifi 2 minutes after device is powered up.

Rule3
	ON System#Boot DO RuleTimer2 120 ENDON
	ON Rules#Timer=2 DO Backlog Wifi 0; var1 0 ENDON

Activation via Rule3 1, as above.

I hope that’s not too much text. I wanted everyone to be able to do this (in my opinion) very handy automation, too. Want to expand it to my washing machine as it’s a similar use case.

As the title says, here’s a picture:

Regards Grizzle

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Are you disabling WiFi because the WiFi from this switch is causing interference with something else? Or to reduce load on your WiFi AP?

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I can’t tell it produces interference. It had to be on Wifi while I programmed it, but the plug seemed to have reliable connection and not to affect other devices.

I try to use cables over wireless whenever possible. It’s not totally proven if electromagnetic waves can harm you - but also not disproved. Even though I know I cannot totally avoid them (without losing some comfort), I reduce them whenever possible.

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Used the holidays to „build“ a digital bookshelf :woozy_face::joy:

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Put temperature sensors on my boiler’s supply and return lines and a sensor on the zone controller to show when there’s a heat call from at least one zone. I have an issue with some nonsensical readings to work out (the blue downward spikes), but you can see pretty clearly how the system is working

You can see both supply and return temps drift down when there’s no call, and then a slug of cold water. come back from the first zone that triggers a new call, then the flame cycling on and off during the call.
I still need to figure out how to chart the heat call the other way (want highlighting when the contact is CLOSED, not OPEN)

Running on an ESP8266 with DS18B20 temperature sensors (there’s a 3rd not shown on this graph for ambient temperature in the basement).
Considering possible enhancements to put a temp sensor on each Zone’s return, and possibly contact sensors on the heat call for each zone.

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Are these sensors in the water, or measuring surface temp of the pipes? And what firmware are you using on the ESP8266?

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The sensors are the waterproof version with stainless steel ends. They are under the pipe insulation, against the copper pipe. Probably a little slow in reacting to the water temp changes, but close enough for my purposes.
The ESP firmware is custom, and publishes messages on MQTT that look like this:

/sensor/bcff4d1a1df1/281d5d7791030232 149.90
/sensor/bcff4d1a1df1/28430f7791040277 60.80
/sensor/bcff4d1a1df1/28b75e77910b0299 146.41

The first hex string is the reporting node (ESP)'s MAC address, the second is the sensor ID.
The contact looks like /sensor/{noce id}/HEATCALL. ON|OFF

Temperatures are read every 30 seconds and reported if they change.
Contract is checked every 2.5 seconds and reported on change.

The MQTT topics are mapped to items via a generic MQTT Thing.

This architecture allows me to have multiple copies of the setup with the sensors and nodes automatically given unique IDs. I haven’t generalized the contact yet.

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Sounds like what I’m about to attempt with two DS18B20 sensors on an ESP8266, though I’m just going to use Tasmota I think. I’m glad to hear it works well enough!

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Interfaced my diesel hot air heater in my campervan through AfterBurner (ESP32 based brillant project by Mr Jones) over MQTT/JSON to OH3.3 on Rpi:




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Here’s an oldie revisited. I finally turned the bathtub into a pandemic safe concert hall using solid-borne sound transducers. Ear-piercing sound even under water.

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all of my home is automated, so looked into my EV:

Basically it reads the data provided from the car manufacturer.

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Hi Markus, which transducer did you use? Tried to figure out some time ago, if this could be applicable to bring audio to my kitchen. But all I found where recommendations better not to use such transducers at all.

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Visaton 4541. Not exactly Hi-Fi but alright for the price, the whole solution including a BT amplifier was maybe 150€. Pretty enjoyable given the commercial alternative I saw (some Kaldewei bathtub) was 5k€ (!).

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so i did some WLED Projects around the house … this one is my favorite so far

building the box was so much fun so i enjoyed twice :slight_smile:

oh and some credit to the guy who de

took WLED working project skipped the diffuser and used the glass of gate itself

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Here’s my quick contribution. 12 volt, rgb strip, controlled with a H801 rgbww controller flashed with tasmota, located behind the TV, hooked to openHAB.
A rule, using a xiaomi light sensor, states that the rgb strip should only light up, when the TV is turned on, and only if the light in the living room is under a certain threshold.
E.g.: it light detected by light sensor is under 30 lumens, and TV is turned on, then also turn on the TV back light. If not, then do nothing.

Super simple stuff, but WAF went up quite significantly.

Album here: https://imgur.com/gallery/zgPCyBF

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For the last couple of months I was working on a music player mainly for my kids. Since I’m now pretty pleased with the software as well I might as well share with you the results. Though I spent a good amount of thinking about technical details the woodworking and lacquering tasks where by the far the most challenging parts for me.

Short feature overview:

  • Spotify player with Spotify connect
  • RFID reader to trigger and store playlists
  • Fancy LED for volume setting, volume level and low battery visualisation
  • USV type power supply with automatic shutdown feature
  • simple controls: power on/off, volume, previous and next song
  • headphone jack that mutes the integrated main amp

But see for yourself:

For anyone interested in the code I just published my repo here:

There is no documentation there whatsoever. If you’re interested in the project please let me know. I can add some useful info in the Readme then.

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A small project I did more or less just for fun: a smart letterbox. It’s not incredibly useful since my doorbell usually also informs me when the postman arrives but I had some spare hardware after I replaced my self-built semi-smart doorbell with a proper one and just wanted to try this. I have a pretty standard (at least in Germany) letterbox like this one: Burg Wächter Briefkasten Black & Steel London-Set 68670 B+S kaufen bei OBI

I used an ESP-01S with two switches, one for the flap and one for the door. Both switches wake the ESP from deep sleep which sends a message via ESPNow to my gateway in the house. The door switch NC-connector is also connected to the RX Pin which is pulled high so that the ESP knows which switch was opened (RX High → flap, RX Low → door).

Fun fact: realised too late that the battery does not fit in the box with the lid closed so I just cut a hole in there :man_shrugging: This at least gives me easy access to the battery so it’s actually quite convenient.

The openHAB logic is very simple: assume that there is something in the box when the flap was opened last, and assume it has been emptied after the door has been opened.

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