What dimmer switch for LED Bulbs (UK)?

@ThomDietrich - Sorry, what do you mean?

This oneā€¦

Iā€™m using http://www.sunricher.com/rf-wifi-control-ac-phase-cut-dimmer-with-push-dim-sr-1009sac-hp.html to control my 230v LED panels. Requires a ā€œbridgeā€ on top: http://www.sunricher.com/wifi-rf-convertor-sr-2818win.html

Works fine with openhab but definitely not ā€œcheapā€.

Those devices support a parallel wired switch which makes them independent from Openhab/the Bridge.

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These are the sort of things I like, but no dim function.

https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-t1.html

These look like they may work, depends if they can be integrated to OpenHABā€¦
I do already have a Broadlink unit on order, which does look like it may control them. Assuming I can get the added functionality in OpenHAB for this unit.

Thatā€™s what we were talking about in the above comments :slight_smile: Compare: https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-touch.html

These T1 devices appear like successors of the Sonoff Touch. Nice! I was waiting for 2 channel Touch buttons. I canā€™t confirm it but you can expect them to be supported by the custom firmware Sonoff-Tasmota shortly.

Aah, almost forget, no dimming functionalityā€¦ Sorry

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Its the dimming bit that seems difficult to getā€¦ :frowning:

I didnt know about this dimmer. ESP8266 inside.
Also, I never realised the SonOff Touch was reprogrammable as well, ESP8285 inside. That solves a lot of ā€˜problemsā€™ I was pondering aboutā€¦ I do not see much difference between the Sonoff Touch and the Sonoff T1-1
Good to know, tnx

Great thread, I am like looking for the same thing so will see if anyone comes up with any ideas. I brought a sonoff t1 touch and flashed successfully with tasmota. Works great although I got the 2 gang and there is only a profile for 4 gang on tasmota so 2 channels are unused. Needs live and neutral as well though at the socket so canā€™t really use it with switched live (fine if new build and can put it in) and no dim function which is a shame. Think T1 is just new model of the touch but could be wrong.

Be nice if sonoff developed a dimmer able controller :slight_smile:

Paul,

Did you find a solution to this. Iā€™m looking for the same thing, to dim some GU10 LED lamps. I have an existing wall mounted manual dimmer and want to put an inline dimmer that I can control from a wall mounted switch and from openHAB.

As you say, this seems a difficult task for the DIYer, but must be one of the most requested use cases here in the UK.

CHEERS

SIMON

hi Simon,

Iā€™ve bought a Aeon (Aeotec) Nano Dimmer, but havenā€™t got around to fitting it yet (so canā€™t tell you how well it works) - but it should do the job, and doesnā€™t require a neutral wire.
(note: the different Nano Switch does require a neutral)

PS: if the wall switch box doesnā€™t have enough depth for the nano dimmer behind the switch, you can buy expansion plates to rise the switch away from the wall a little.

Thanks Neil. Are you also going to control it from openHABā€¦? If so, what gateway are you usingā€¦?

I can fit the actual dimmer anywhere as Iā€™m putting the GU10 in a soffit around my cinema room. I just need to make sure my wife can still use them from a switch on the wall while I set scenes from openHABā€¦:slight_smile:

Cheers

Simon

Fibaro 212 dimmers have been working fine for me (assuming you have a zwave set up).

does that require a neutral wire, smar?

In the UK itā€™s unusual to have a neutral behind the switch.

I notice that the Fibaro recommend the use of a dummy load for LED lights, do you use thatā€¦?

Only if the total load of the LED circuit is less than about 25 watts for that dimmer, in which case you need to either add the Fibaro dimmer bypass as well, across one of your bulbs (or the fibaro dimmer output) OR have one of the bulbs as a normal halogen GU10 with over 25Watts. I have both scenarios in use and working ok.

hi simon, yeah, the plan is to control it from openhab. I already have a z-wave network (using an aeotec z-stick, about Ā£30) with openhab.

itā€™s the only hardware Iā€™ve found which doesnā€™t require a neutral at the switch, so itā€™s ideal from that angle.

Iā€™ve not fitted it yet because Iā€™m waiting for an expansion plate to arrive, to give a little more depth behind the original switch, as the nano dimmer is very slightly too fat to fit behind the switch with the switch flush to the wall.

No, the dimmers do not need a neutral. Only the relays (on/off - no dimming) require neutrals.

Also you may be surprised to find that some builds do have neutrals in as well - it seems to be becoming increasingly common in properties built/rewired in the last 15 years or so. I myself am in Londonā€¦ :slight_smile:

Iā€™m a qualified sparky (tho a while since iā€™ve worked as that), and sod all houses have been built in the UK in the last 15 years. :stuck_out_tongue:

The vast majority of UK houses donā€™t have a neutral at the switch, tho thereā€™s all sorts of reasons why things might have been done that way here and there.

Thanks for the no-neutral info for the Fibaro. Iā€™ll have a look at those too.

the aeotec dimmer needs a bypass for low loads too, although Iā€™m not sure if the bypass is actually available yet.

So the fibaro might be the better bet.

The two modules look very similar, I wonder if theyā€™re made by the same manufacturer.

They seem expensive and Iā€™m happy to put the dimmer near the actual lights where live and neutral will be present, but still canā€™t find anything.

If I canā€™t, then Iā€™ll,go with the Fibaro or aeon solution.

Cheers

Simon