Hi
It’s been drawn to my attention that there are very few tutorials on how to install a fully wired building control system.
So I’ve created this short video
I’ll add links to other tutorial videos I make in the future.
If you discover any useful tutorials on wired systems, please put the links in this thread to help others.
Likewise, if you’d like me to create a video explaining a specific area of Velbus installation or programming, please put a post here and I’ll take a look.
Cheers,
Stuart
I´ll comment the video while looking…
Less than a minute in the video I see those damn wall boxes!! I hate them, hate them, hate them… Thats a very bad start! (sorry, internal joke. Stuart get it, (I hope 
)).
5:00 - Your desk and test setup looks like my desk, and almost the same test setup, except I have more mess and garbage laying around on my desk! I will not let you beat me on this one 
serious on:
9:00 - Why are the leds of both buttons (1 and 2) flashing when timer is running, when you only programmed button 2 for the timer?
Done watching - Great video… At least now anyone knows how to get started with Velbus. And it sure is easy, I can tell from my experience which was basicly none, untill I put my hands onto a small test setup as well. I did kinda cheat though… I´m educated eletrician, (back in the late 80´s). For a few decades I have been working with highly advanced automation and relay technique for the danish railroad and the interlocking systems. All I had to know is how to connect the bus, and program Velbus.
However, my suggestion… maybe for a “part before one” episode
I´ll suggest is to spend alittle more time on the wirering part, ending in a “real” fnished setup having one glas panel, one relay and wire a dimmer+bulb or whatever to the output, with special focus on the wirering from start till the end. Remember, those who look at your video maybe havn´t even tried wirering anything before. Some of that part probably calls for an electrician, (at least in Denmark it is, if the power is 230volt). So make sure to notice this as well. But I still believe you can show how easy it is, and how things makes sense when seeing the parts beeing wired all together, you push the button, and light turns on. Thats the real magic! The programming is the truth and therefore the borring part
Thanks Kim,
That’s a great review.
Would you mind putting something similar on YouTube or the Velbus forum?
As for the round boxes, you could always use the square European ones?
https://www.legrand.com/ecatalogue-mobile/080151-flush-mounting-box-batibox-square.html
It might be easier to gently open up the holes in your walls to accept these boxes?
That’s easy to explain 
Both buttons have “Actions” to the same relay channel, so the state of the relay is being displayed by both buttons.
Imagine if these buttons were on different panels?
It’s the same as openHAB2 reporting the status of the Relay, even though it didn’t send a command to that relay channel 
As for my desk, what do you think you’d see if I panned the camera around
Sure… I´ll do a short review later on the youtube channel. I dont think I have created an account on the Velbus forum, yet.
They could do allright. But I have two main problems.
This means even more opening of the holes to the wall. And maybe the 230volt cable coming from above wont be long enough…
In all, it´s not impossible, it´s a very big project, unfortunatly… All because of these damn wall boxes, (or the size of the panels… It would make things much easier if Wellmann changed the panels to suit the Fuga boxes )
So the led in the buttons is actually an return-respond from the relay, which is why both buttons flashing? (I thought the leds were control by the panel).
Hopefully not the same mess I´ve got 
We can carry the fine detail on in a PM, however for anyone else following topic that has similar issues…
The lovely covers you refer to use the same mounting frames as the glass panels and are not designed to fit in the Double / Triple back boxes like these…
The only way you can have a glass panel right next to a Schuko socket (for example), even if you have to extend the data or power cable a little, is to fit two single boxes with at least 86mm between the centers.
If you’re really lucky, Zero “making good” 
if the gap between the two is tight.
However, be aware that the temperature sensor on the glass panel is under the bottom right hand corner.
The how-to animation for the Helia box is great.
I’ll create a drilling template and attach it here.
68mm Twin back box drilling template.pdf (127 KB Zip)
In the UK, we have these Dual Single back boxes, that definitely accept Two full sized single facia plates.
For example, a Glass Panel (with an extra back plate for support) and any standard single outlet.
However, we tend not to have power outlets beside our switches.
We prefer to uncomfortably bend ourselves over and plug things in near the ground.
Oh no…
The Feedback LEDs are way better than ‘just’ that.
You can even change their states with openHAB2
And if Cédric can work his magic, you’ll even be able to change the colour (of the Edge Lit versions) in openHAB2
The boxes you´r linking to is for “light” walls, (plaster). The walls I´ve got are all aerated concrete, where boxes like these cant be used.
I´m talking about the small leds (white) on the buttons
There are different kinds of boxes, for different substrates.
Okay… Will look into it.
Hmm, and I cant read I guess
